SyTy Garage for GMC Syclone and Typhoon Enthusiasts

Window Motor Replacement

Window Motor Replacement

The following is a guide on the Syclone or Typhoon window motor replacement.  It is contributed by Ed O’Rourke.


“I had to replace the driver’s door electric window motor because it got to the point where the motor didn’t have enough power left to get the window up.  Below is the parts list I purchased and the step-by-step installation and photos.  Keep in mind, pricing on parts was from 1999!”

(1) Motor- NAPA #49-25 ‘window lift’ $52.90 w/$11 core charge.
(4) BalKamp #665-1143 (NAPA) 1/4″ body plugs for the noise insulation piece.
(they come in a pack. of 22 for $4.75)
(12) Balkamp #665-2085 (NAPA) nylon fasteners to hold the inner door panel on.
(they come in a pack of 6 for $4.25)

Installation time: Between 45 min. and 1-1/2 hrs.

Refer to photos to aid in locating various parts…. see text below for installation instructions.  Keep in mind the Syclone or Typhoon window motor replacement is for those that know there way around and are handy with tools.


Block window at the half-up position before removing motor.

Syclone Typhoon window motor replacement picture 2

Drill out (or air chisel) the 4 factory rivets.


NAPA replacement motor

Syclone Typhoon window motor replacement picture 4

The bolt is to keep the spring from unraveling after removing the motor for replacement.

Syclone Typhoon window motor replacement picture 5

Stock motor on window crank before replacing the motor. Liberally grease the crank before reinstalling it.


  • Roll window all the way down. Remove trim piece (3 screws) above window.
  • Remove 2 screws from arm rest. Slide a flat pry bar under the door panel and lift out all of the fastener plugs, lift the door panel up and away from the door. Swing it aside to allow for the window button wiring connections.
  • Remove the two bolts holding the armrest bracket (10mm?).
  • Pry the body plugs from the foam insulation and rotate the armrest bracket out of it’s mounting holes… remove the foam insulation and armrest bracket.
  • Carefully peel off the water splash shield all the way around the door and remove it.
  • Block the window at the 1/2 way up position (see photo above).
  • I used the tip of a screwdriver to release the electrical plug snap and pull it off.
  • Using an air chisel, pop off the four rivets holding the window lift bracket or drill them out with a drill(see photo above for rivet locations).
  • Slide the roller off the window channel and maneuver the window lift mechanism out of the door.

*** IMPORTANT *** Before removing the old motor, drill a hole through the window lift bracket (using existing hole as a guide – see picture above) and put a 1/4″ bolt
through the holes. Fasten the bolt with a 1/4″ nut and tighten. This is to keep the spring from going ballistic while you have the motor off.

  • Using a 1/4″ drill bit, drill out the four rivets holding the motor to the lift mechanism mounting bracket.
  • Punch out the pieces of the rivets, separating the motor from the mounting bracket.
  • Liberally grease all the moving pieces and install the replacement motor using the screws and nuts provided with the replacement motor. Secure nuts tightly.
  • Grease the pivot wheel on the end of the lift arm prior to reinstalling.
  • Don’t forget to remove the ‘safety bolt’ installed earlier!!!!!!! (I forgot to…. duhhh).
  • Put the lift mechanism mounting bracket back into the door, sliding the lift pivot wheel back into the channel at the bottom of the window.
  • When the bracket is in position, secure it to the door using 1/4-20 screws/bolts and nuts on the back side. Tighten securely.
  • Plug the electrical connection onto the motor.

*** Remove the block you put under the window earlier!! ***

  • Test the motor running the window full up to full down several times to make sure it’s operating correctly.
  • If satisfied with the new motor function, put the water shield back onto the door, lining up the holes in the plastic with the mounting holes in the door. (I used 2″ wide packing tape to firmly secure the water shield in place since the original sticky wasn’t gripping real well).
  • Reinstall the foam sound insulation, lining the armrest bracket up with the mounting holes and start the two bolts back into the armrest bracket.
  • Put (4) body plugs through the foam securing it in place on the door.
  • Tighten the armrest mounting bolts.
  • Install new fasteners in the inner door panel (if needed). Put the top edge of the door panel in place, then align the door panel fasteners up with their fastening holes.
  • Press all the fasteners into the door seating the door panel in place. (I broke a few of the fasteners getting it put back, so keep a few spare fasteners handy just in case).
  • Reattach the trim piece above the door panel using the 3 screws removed earlier.
  • Retest the window to your satisfaction.

Lastly, pat yourself on the back…. return the core and get your deposit back (if you paid one!!).  You now have a new Syclone or Typhoon window motor replacement.

If you want to add a somewhat hidden trailer hitch to your Typhoon here’s a few photos of the results.